Waiting to Exhale (1995)

A romantic drama that makes me want to commit a fiery act in a black lace bustier.

Aug 09, 2024

Waiting to Exhale (1995), directed by Forest Whitaker and based on Terry McMillan's novel, is the ultimate fashion film. It follows four women—Savannah Jackson (Whitney Houston), Bernadine Harris (Angela Bassett), Gloria Matthews (Loretta Devine), and Robin Stokes (Lela Rochon)—as they navigate life, love, and heartbreak in Phoenix. When I tell you the outfits in this film blew me away… I mean it. Lace bodysuits, floral peplums, and ENORMOUS earrings. A true sartorial gift.

Savannah Jackson (Whitney Houston) & Robin Stokes (Lela Rochon) by the pool. That swimsuit!

At the heart of all of this is Judy L. Ruskin's impeccable costume design, which weaves fashion into the very fabric of the characters' lives, showcasing their personal journeys and growth through their style choices. Despite the wondrous theatrics of the wardrobe, it remains grounded. Ruskin is quoted in the LA Times saying, “These are working women (...) they don’t have the kind of money to buy Vivienne Westwood or Christian Lacroix--or the interest.” This pragmatic approach to fashion is one of the film’s most compelling elements—each outfit, while style-forward and memorable, is entirely believable and accessible, reflecting real, everyday lives.

Infamous girls' night at the club scene.

Another fascinating component of the wardrobe curation was the unconventional approach taken by director Forest Whitaker and Ruskin. “We decided that each woman was to represent an element and an aspect of nature,” Ruskin said. Savannah represents the wind with her flowing clothes like loose pants and long sweaters. Robin, embodying fire, is the most provocative, with her red lace bras and tight dresses. Gloria, as earth, wears colorful tunics and accessories. Bernadine, symbolizing water, is the cleanest and most sophisticated dresser, often seen in cream-colored suits.

The aesthetics of Black women have profoundly influenced fashion, often from the periphery of mainstream culture. Waiting to Exhale is a nuanced tribute to this influence, showcasing the diverse and dynamic styles that characterize Black women's fashion.

Note:

The following collection of outfits is non-exhaustive—just those that had the most visceral effect on me and my understanding of the story.
If you see a style you love but in a size you don’t, please message me! I will help you find it.
There may be some light plot spoilers.
I have been cautious in this dispatch about being appreciative rather than appropriative. If you feel otherwise, please don’t hesitate to contact me.
Any affiliate income generated by this post will be donated to The National Black Women’s Justice Institute (NBWJI)

I. Savannah Jackson

Savannah Jackson is a successful television producer who moves to Phoenix, hoping for better romantic prospects. Despite her career achievements, Savannah finds herself entangled in a long-term affair with a married man who continuously promises to leave his wife but never does. With her flowing clothes that convey movement and freedom, she epitomizes the element of wind. Her wardrobe is filled with loose pants, long sweaters, and wrap-jacket suits, mostly sourced from L.A.’s Harari stores.

Catch me in this exact outfit come autumn. Down to the gold ring.

Whitney Houston (naturally) significantly impacted its soundtrack, contributing the hit song "Exhale (Shoop Shoop)," which topped the Billboard Hot 100.

Whitney’s perfect hair credited to Ellin LaVa. The two have been friends since they were teens.

One of her most iconic outfits in the film is this black bias-cut slip dress by Galanos.

So, it turns out #SavannahCore is my ideal aesthetic. These tones and textures are what my cooler weather dreams are made of.

The Row, Vintage Blouse, United Colors Of Benetton, Vintage Ring, Vintage Earrings, Gucci Scarf.

II. Bernadine Harris

Bernadine Harris begins the film as a devoted wife and mother who has sacrificed her career ambitions to support her husband and raise their children. Her world is shattered when her husband abruptly leaves her for another woman, a betrayal that sends Bernadine into a spiral of anger and grief. Her wardrobe symbolizes water, highlighting her clean, sophisticated, and fluid style—often wearing cream-colored suits with an enviable sense of collectedness.

Armani pantsuit. The film also references that she owns a navy Norma Kamali suit, brown jacket, and striped vest from Ungaro. Makes sense :)

Her most unforgettable outfit is the white robe and lace bodysuit she wears while setting her husband’s belongings on fire, a powerful visual metaphor for her emotional release.

Exquisite rage. As a surprise to no one, Angela Bassett won the NAACP Image Award for Outstanding Lead Actress in a Motion Picture for her role.

Costume National, Armani Collezioni, Soft Goat, Vintage Bustier, Givenchy Necklace, Givenchy Earrings.

A stunning capture of her husband’s closet post-burn.

III. Gloria Matthews

Gloria Matthews is a single mother and beauty salon owner who has devoted much of her life to raising her son, Tarik. Her story revolves around her struggle to let go of her son as he prepares to leave home for a year abroad, a separation that triggers Gloria’s fears of being alone. Her wardrobe is full of colorful printed tunics and blouses—many of which are African imports or designed by artists and sold at Joanne Rapp’s The Hand and the Spirit Gallery in Phoenix. Gloria’s major statements come through her accessories, including handmade beaded jewelry and big, wild hats.

Gloria’s sartorial palette pays homage to her heritage, with her wardrobe featuring vibrant prints, tunics, and accessories that reflect the richness and diversity of African culture.

This is one of my favorite scenes in the film—this floral peplum dress feels important.

I love this Fuchsia pink on Gloria! The same afternoon I watched this film, I purchased a similar style.

Vintage Dress 1, Vintage Dress 2, Vintage Dress 3, Blouse, Necklace 1, Necklace 2.

IIII. Robin Stokes

Robin Stokes, played by Lela Rochon, is a high-powered executive who struggles with finding lasting and meaningful relationships. Throughout Waiting to Exhale, Robin repeatedly falls for men who are wrong for her—whether it's a married man, a cocaine addict, or a charming yet unreliable lover. Her wardrobe is marked by bold and provocative choices highlighting her fiery personality—red lace demi-bras, tight orange halter dresses, and outfits that show off her midriff.